Monday, 9 December 2024

The Marvellous Apilectica


A DIY tool for assisting hive relocation.



Background:   

     Moving hives is an occasional nuisance, but happens enough to benefit from a purpose-built tool. Moving with a small vehicle presents an additional challenge in loading a heavy item sideways.

I prefer the "Litter" method of transport, and this design adds wheels to allow it to be slid sideways into a vehicle.     A bombastic name has been given to compensate for simplistic design.

The design is based on a Roman litter, ergo the Latin name.   


Materials:

1 pc 2x4 spruce, 8'

4 pcs 1" wheels with base no wider thatn 1.5"

2 pcs angle plates.  (Used for framing) 

6 pcs 3.5" screws 


Building:

1). Measure the width of your car hatch.      Length of beams should be width of hatch minus 4 inches.

2). Affix wheels on the bottom of the beams, 2 per beam, 10" from center.    This will center them under your hive, which is 20" long.

3). Screw in 3 screws in the side of each beam.  One in center, and two, each 8" from center.     Don't drive all the way through.      

4).  Affix an angle plate  on the bottoms of each beam.    These are not intended for load bearing, but to assist with alignment. 


The guiding-principle here is ease-of-quick-use.     Who wants to measure and fuss with proper alignment in the cold?


Using:

0.   Prepare hive by reducing height.  Remove quilts and hive top feeders.    Replace telescoping lid with a migratory lid, as necessary.     A ratchet strap can be used to secure hive for extra safety.    


1.   Affix beams to side of hives.    Two people grab each end and carry.


2. Load in vehicle.  Wheels allow sliding in sideways with minimal effort.   Pushing in is preferable to leaning and straining, which risks injury.




3.   Unload, install in new location.     In this case, the hive is moved to my honey house, where it will overwinter.     





Saturday, 7 September 2024

2024 Calgary Yellowjacket outbreak: A DIY Trap that works.

 



(Picture of me foolishly holding a bowl of wasps near my face)


Currently, Calgary is experiencing a wasp outbreak like we've never seen before.      Our local beekeeping mailing list is clogged with reports of our honeybee hives under attack, and requests for advice.

My own honey-house, a shed where I extract and bottle honey, is unusable, as it's been taken over by hundreds of wasps looking for free food.       I'd like to start bottling, but can't.

What to do?

For the last 7 years, I've been enthusiastically recommending the "Rescue Disposable Yellowjacket Trap", but at ~$10 each, these disposables can get expensive.      In any case, they're sold out everywhere in the region.   

2024's wasp war is well underway, and we're already out of ammo.


Thanks to Lyndon of the Calgary Beekeepers Association, I've found a DIY solution that is working very well.     Lyndon credits the Calgary Gardening facebook group, for the bait, and a youtube user for the trap design.


DIY WASP Trap and Attractant:


Materials:

Plastic containers and funnels from dollar store.

Cider Vinegar

Sugar

Dish Soap

 


Procedure:

1.    Make the trap:   Drill a hole in the center of the lid of your container.      Insert funnels, and consider affixing with some kind of glue that can support and affix the funnel.       I used Dap caulking, as I had it at hand.      Affixing is probably not even necessary.





2.  Make the attractant:     Mix 1/3 water, 1/3 sugar, and 1/3 Cider vinegar, with a dash of dish soap:






3.  Here's the final product:  DIY traps, with DIY attractant.  Note that they're already attracting wasps.





Here's a picture of my prototype/trial trap, deployed two days ago:





These traps kill roughly ten wasps per hour, each.    Over the course of a day, that's about 100 wasps.     Location seems to play a part in effectiveness, so if they're not trapping at this rate, relocate.

They can be emptied and refilled with attractant as needed.

The attractant is honey-bee safe, with the cider vinegar making the trap unattractive to honey bees.


Miscellaneous notes on wasp control and behavior:

- Skip the "Fake wasp nests".    Simply put, they're a magic talisman, and don't work.    If people recommend these to you, block them or disown them as sources of incorrect information.   Perhaps take out a restraining order.

- "Rescue" also has a re-usable version of their trap, called the "Re-usable WHY Trap".   I don't care for these as the refills are as expensive as their disposable traps, and these don't work as well.     That being said, if their disposables aren't available, these are a good substitute.    Also, rather than purchasing more attractant, you can use the DIY recipe above.

- Wasps start the summer as pollen-and-nectar foragers, and finish the summer as omnivore scavengers.    By fall, their populations have grown, and their feeding habits have changed - Which is what brings them into our spaces in such numbers.

- Wasps have a reputation for being "Aggressive assholes", but it may not be so simple.  Let's reframe this as "Defending their young from strangers".   When they sting us, it's because we've unknowingly come near their nest, and threatened their babies.   Really, who likes strangers getting into their children's personal space?

- Wasps are not defensive when scavenging.   They're away from their babies, and seem very focused on free-food.      Heck, you can even tickle them, and they'll fly away.    They will sting if restrained or pressed on.     In fact, this year's honey harvest has me to work in a small room with hundreds of scavenging wasps.    It has been absolutely terrible - but also a learning experience.   Even as they buzzed around my head, they didn't sting me, unless one landed on my skin and I touched it, or accidentally touched one while picking something up.  

- Wasp stings hurt MUCH more than honeybee stings.   One a year is more than enough for me, and I've had 10 this year.    Most were hand-placement stings - Accidentally touching a wasp when moving equipment or buckets in my honey house.     They cause swelling, and ache for a week.    In comparison, I get dozens of honeybee stings a year, and hardly notice.

- My honey house has attracted more wasps into my yard than I'd normally have.    Probably a net-benefit for my neighbors, as this will also reduce the interest in their yards. 

- Their invasion of my honey house has distracted them from my hives.    It's both curse and blessing.     While I'm unable to bottle honey, my hives are also being spared the vespan siege that most beehives in Calgary are currently experiencing.

- I put a RESCUE "Disposable" trap inside of my honey house, and they showed no interest in it.  Not a single wasp trapped overnight.     It's a bit puzzling, as I'd assumed wasps were scent-driven like honeybees.      It was warm in the honey house, but dark.    This is unexpected, and I have no theory.     Once placed outside a window of the honey house, it actually drew them outside by the dozens. 

- 12 Hours after posting this blog post, I've trapped/killed about 7oo wasps, and my yard and honey house has significantly less activity.     Here's what it took:

  • 3 Rescue disposable traps
  • 2 Rescue "WHY" traps filled with DIY attractant
  • 5 DIY traps filled with DIY attractant
Curiously, some traps fared better than others.   Hands-down, the winner was the W-H-Y traps with the DIY Attractant.    It actually worked better than the manufacturers included attractant.

- I'm finding that my 4 new DIY traps aren't performing as well as my prototype.    The only difference in is the clear lids.     I'm going to make some new ones with opaque lids, and see if that makes a difference.




        


Sunday, 16 June 2024

A streamlined swarm-response system for beekeeping organizations


Background: 

Inevitably, bees swarm.     These errant colonies end up in odd locations, and if not captured quickly can end up infesting homes: an outcome that is unpleasant for many reasons. 

So, as beekeepers, we must capture them quickly, and hopefully capture them all.

Here's a system I developed for the Calgary Beekeeper's association about 10 years ago.   Previously, incoming reports from the public would would go to one individual who was burdened with calling around to find someone to respond.    Often, beekeepers would be dispatched on false-alarms, such as wasps or bumblers.   It was effort intensive, error-prone, and slow.

Around 2013, we saw an increase in these calls, and previous methods were not working - So I created this process which reduces effort and errors, improves response time, and is scalable.

The Calgary Beekeepers Association has been using this system for 10 years now, and Vancouver's Beekeeping Association has been using it for 5 years.    Tribal knowledge of this process has been handed down in the Calgary Association, but nuances have also been lost, learnings have been learned, and refinements made.   I'm publishing here as a guide, and welcome other associations to adopt this process.

As Bruce Lee said:  Take what you need, and discard what you don't.


Overview of the process;   Reporters, Coordinators, and Responders:

1)   When a citizen sees a swarm, they will either call 311 (Municipal information) or contact the club directly through the website.    Both paths direct to a dedicated email swarm-coordinator email address.

2)  These reports are received by the club's swarm-coordinator at a dedicated email address.    They are reviewed to ensure they're actually honeybees, and not bumblers or wasps.

3)    The swarm coordinator sends an alert to the swarm team, with the most important details:   "Swarm in Edgemont on an apple tree 10 feet up".

4)  A member of the swarm team replies to the alert, "claiming" it.    The dispatcher confirms their claim to the rest of the group, and privately messages the responder with the reporter's details.

5)  The responder deploys to capture the swarm, and updates swarm team with the outcome, such as "Edgemont capture complete", or "Swarm moved on", or "Too high to capture".

In ideal situations, we can have someone onsite within 20 minutes of the initial report being made - Sometimes even less.      


Intent and Guiding principles:

    1).  Get homeless honeybees off the streets before they become home infestations (Cutouts).    This is paramount.   

    2).  This process is streamlined to facilitate fastest possible response time, while preventing trips for non-honeybees.

    3).  The transparent and and semi-equitable distribution of swarms among members, based on their ability to respond quickly.

    4).  The first-to-claim system has an element of gentle competition built into it, to facilitate improved response times.


Specific notes:

Reporters:

Reporters are the general public, who have spotted a swarm in a public place, or homeowners who have had one arrive in their yard.    

In general, they'll take one of three actions:   They'll call an exterminator, they'll google for beekeepers, or they'll call "311", our City's catch-all help line.    Exterminators will identify a swarm as honeybees and refuse to action, then redirect the caller to the Beekeeping Association website, or 311.

Our association's swarm-reporting webpage has some pictures of wasps and bumblebees minimize false-reports.

Our association has worked with 311 to provide them with basic questions to ask, and after vetting, they'll forward the report to our association's email address.

Whatever the source, all paths will eventually lead to the association's swarm-response email address.


Swarm Coordinators(Intake and dispatch):   

The swarm coordinator is primarily responsible for communication, both in terms of intaking the intial report, and in dispatching to the swarm team.

- There should be a dedicated email address for the swarm-coordinator role, separate from the Association's general mailbox, allowing separation of information and duties.

- Swarm coordinators can set their phone to give a loud, high-priority notification when emails come in to the dedicated email address.

- There should be more than one coordinator, for transparency, responsiveness, and coverage.

- Swarm coordinators validate that the report is neither wasps, nor bumblers.     If it's not initially clear, they can ask these follow-up questions:    

    When did it arrive?  (Swarms arrive suddenly)

    Is it under a step, or in a tree?  (Swarms are usually high, bumblers and wasps usually low)

    Is is 10s of bees, or 1000s?  (Bumblers come in 10s, honeybee swarms in 1000s)

- A communications tool should be chosen that allows group chat, but also allows the swarm coordinator to manage membership.      Currently we are using a "Whats-App" group, and it's working well.     

Dispatched Alerts, at the very least, should contain neighborhood and briefly describe height/setting:     "Swarm in Edgemont, 8 feet up apple tree".   "Swarm in Bel-aire, wrapped around a spruce, 15 feet up".

- After receiving a claim of a swarm, the coordinator confirms the claim with "Daniel has claimed".   

- After confirming a claim, the swarm coordinator should send all known information to the responder.     At the very least, there should be a description of setting, an address, and a contact # of the reporter. 

- The swarm coodinator should not rubberstamp swarm squatting.    Even if there's been a delay in claiming, a swarm should be fair-game until someone is ready to deploy.    A reasonable exception would be in the evening, when arrangements need to be made for an early morning recovery.      

- Swarm coordinators should be allowed to take a few for themselves, as compensation for their efforts.    This is done at their discretion, perhaps based on their ability to respond quickly, or perhaps claiming a swarm that others have been slow to claim.     Or..... just because!

Responders (swarm team):

The swarm responders are responsible for deploying to recover the swarm.

- Should be beekeepers of no less than two years, and ideally have some experience or confidence in swarm catching.        Only the confident and capable should be on the team.

- Should only claim a swarm if they are confident they can action it with the information provided.

- Going out on a call is inherently a leap of faith, and a responder must be able to confidently adapt to an unknown and dynamic situation despite being provided a minimum of details.   If they are not comfortable doing this, they should not be on the swarm team.

- Should not pollute the group chat with non-dispatch related traffic.    

- Should not "Swarm squat".....That is, claim a swarm with intention to go later.      A claim that is willing to "Go now" takes precedence over a claim to "Go later".

- Responses to claim swarms should be clear and unambiguous.    "I can go now" Is preferred over "I think I might be able to go if it's ok".        Let's not leave the coordinator guessing.     A clear and decisive claim takes precedence over a vague and indecisive claim.   

- If a difficult to capture swarm has gone unclaimed for 30 minutes, someone can claim on a best-efforts basis: "Looks unclaimed.   I can give it a shot".

- After being send the specific details by swarm coordinator,  responder should briefly touch base with reporter, and invite reporter to call them if anything should change on site, such as swarm departure.

- Should report outcome of the capture back to the group.   "Capture in Edgemont completed".    "Edgemont Colony 20 feet up, inaccessible".    "Edgemont Swarm moved on".      "Edgemont - Other beekeeper already onsite".  "Edgemont - Infested a column - Kicking back to coordinator to handle as cutout".     Be specific with district, as there are often multiple swarms in progress at the same time.

- Should keep swarm catching equipment already in car, or be able to capture without equipment.   If you have to go home to get it, you can't respond fast enough, and should not be claiming.

- Should not attempt to capture a swarm more than 20 feet high.  Safety first, always.   No bee colony is worth an injury.     If a colony is inaccessible, it will move on in a few days, and hopefully to a more accessible spot where they will be seen and re-reported.      

- Should pass on claiming swarms that are far away - Let someone closer have a shot!    If still unclaimed after a few minutes, it's fair game.

- If they've already recovered several swarms, a swarm team member should delay their responses to further alerts.    Let a  few minutes pass before responding to let others have a shot.

- Should conduct themselves responsibly and in a manner that reflects well upon the club.

- Assume all liabilities in regards to the swarms they respond to, and understand the club is only passing along a lead.


Miscellaneous notes:

- Cutouts:   Every year, our Association deals with a handful of cutouts, and it struggles yet again with the how, and the who.    It's my recommendation that the club create a sub-team of folks able to handle cutouts, so experience and tribal knowledge can be built.    Also, we should build some basic documentation:     A primer for homeowners to outline their choices, a release form for homeowners to sign, and guidance to team members on how to do a cutout.       I have prototype documentation I've used for myself, and will be glad to share if the association creates a cutout sub-team that can develop it further.

- Ideally, swarms should be claimed within minutes, if not seconds.    If swarm alerts are going for more than a few minutes without being claimed, swarm team should have more members added.     

- Swarms more than 20 feet high should not be attempted, and perhaps, not even dispatched.    Hopefully they'll move on in a day or two to a more accessible location, and someone will re-report them.

- Cherrypicker lifts have been considered as a method for too-high swarms, but in the past, I've had immediate access to one, and it still didn't help.   Cherrypickers can't be moved quickly, and onsite-access is also an issue.     As per above, it's just best to let inaccessible swarms move on.

- Bait hives:   Some believe an inaccessible swarm will relocate themselves to a bait hive placed under them.      But swarms don't think that fast.  Their decision making process is slow and cumbersome, and they're already evaluating their choices by time you arrive.     Even if your box is attractive, it's probably missed the deadline to be considered. 

- In the early season there is much enthusiasm for swarm catching.   As the season wears on, there is less.     But we still need to get those bugs off the streets.    A team needs to be big enough to keep momentum through the season.

- On selling swarms:    Some object to the selling of captured swarms.   It's less than ideal, but doesn't necessarily conflict with our primary objective:   Getting homeless bugs off of the streets.      Also, this practice is partially addressed by recommendation that frequent-catchers delay their response claims to give others an opportunity.    In the end, people worry about this more than it happens.   If it becomes a real problem, coordinators can address at their discretion.    

- Coordinators are encouraged to log dates, times, and locations in a spreadsheet.     Over time, this becomes useful data that can be visualized, to look for patterns in the when and where of swarms.

- My stretch-goal dream would be that prospective responders have to take care of a cutout to get on swarm team.   Having to collaborate with a homeowner to resolve such an unpleasant situation inspires a beekeeper to play an enthusiastic role in its prevention.    It would also solve the difficulty of finding people to do cutouts.    

- On occasion, Beekeeping Organizations hear of swarms in neighboring municipalities.    To save ad-hoc legwork, Organizations should maintain a list of regional contacts for swarms.    Over time, we inevitably develop contacts in our region, and these should also be added to the regional contact list.    There is a risk that the contacts can grow stale, something is better than nothing.


Appendix:  An example exchange.


(Swarm coordinator Joe receives an emailed report from a homeowner in Edgemont, sends alert in swarm team's Whats-App group)

[12:30] Joe Jones:    Swarm in Edgemont, 10 feet up an apple tree

[12:31] Mark Smith:   I can go now

[12:33] Joe Jones:   Mark claims Edgemont.

... (Joe sends the original report directly to Mark)

... (Mark calls the reporter and briefly let's them know he's on his way)

... (Mark goes onsite, captures swarm)

[14:20] Mark Smith:   Edgemont capture complete

[14:25] Joe Jones:  Thanks Mark.



--

The author has caught well over 60 swarms, and has occasionally annoyed other beekeepers with his ability to anticipate and predict swarm behaviour.   :-)










Tuesday, 21 May 2024

Daniel's almost foolproof split/queen introduction process.

Overview:    This is how I make my splits using double-screen boards.      This procedure is intended to be maximum-certainty, with minimal visits.   My life is too busy to guess, or to do things over.


Benefits of this process:

- Unattended release means Queen can start laying earlier.

- 1 less visit:  You don't need to wait 24 hours after dequeening to introduce

- Forgiving:   By introducing only to nurse bees, chance of rejection is minimized.

- By limiting introduction to one frame, it makes it easy to confirm presence and well being of released queen. 


Downside:

- Procedure does not scale up well.  You can only do as many concurrent splits as you have double-screen boards.    


Equiment:

- Double Screened Board with entrance, aka "Snelgrove board", aka DSB.

- Empty nucleus hive, preferably 5 frame.

- 1 Caged queen.

- 5 frames of drawn comb.

- An empty hive body.


Procedure:

Ideally, this procedure should take two visits over four days.

1) Remove frames:   Go through hive, remove frames one by one, and locate and remove:   5 frames of capped brood, 1 frame of queen, and 1 frame of uncapped brood.   Set aside the frame of uncapped brood.    Place the five frames of capped brood into your nuc.    Knock the frame with the queen, dropping her into the nuc.   .    

2) Replace frames:  Replace any frames you've removed in the search back into hive.   As you replace each one, bang it over the nuc, dropping the bees into it.    You want to get as many bees into the nuc as you can.       Some will fly back to source hive, but many will stay with mom (the queen) in the nuc.    Do not yet put the set-aside frame of uncapped brood back in hive.

3) Install Queen:  After all frames (Except your single frame of uncapped brood)have been replaced in hive, place double-screen board on top of top hive body, with entrance facing back and up.     Place your single frame of uncapped brood into this hive body.       Open any covers on the sugar plugged exits.     Affix queen cage to the comb, near the center.    Should be near some open brood, but find a place to minimize damage.

4) Replace remaining woodenware over the hive body with queen.   (Inner cover, hive top feeder, and outer cover).

5).  Wait, Check:   After 4-7 days, open hive, and verify that queen has been released.   Ideally, she will be on the single comb, calmly interacting with the other bees.     Remove the empty-hive body, and double screened board, and replace the frame into the top brood box.   Be slow and gentle replacing the frame, so you don't roll the queen.


Explanation of process:

Normally, we'd wait 24 hours after removing a queen to install another, allowing hive recognize its queenless state.    The DSB allows us to immediately install the new queen, but isolate her from foragers who may raise objection.  

Most foragers on the comb of uncapped brood will leave during the frame-relocation to the empty super, and any remainders will eventually leave via the back entrance.    Foragers won't otherwise think to come in through the back entrance.     By the time (minutes) you install the queen on the comb, it should be mostly nurse-bees.

By the time the main part of the colony recognizes queen-absence, they'll also smell queen-presence in above the double screen board.     The screen prevents physical access while at the same time allowing pheromonal familiarization.

The queen will likely be released by the nurse bees in a day or two.     The nurse bees become her new attendants.      If life delays you, and you take more than 4 days to return to check, she may even have started laying - meaning your delay didn't result in queen-delay.

Note:   This same process can be used to introduce a queen to a queenless hive.    Uncapped brood would need to be poached from another hive.   



In this picture:  Single frame of capped and uncapped brood, in an empty super, above DSB.    Cage is in middle, with sugar-plug covers exposed and opened.    Released queen in the middle, marked.




In this picture:   Double Screen Board.   Note single entrance on far end.








Tuesday, 7 May 2024

A beekeeping bibliophile's bee book bibliography



So many bee-books, and so little time!

What are the good books to read? Where is best to get them?

Hopefully this roadmap will help clear up some of the choice-confusion.

The first section has recommendation based on experience level,
the second section suggests a reading roadmap,
and the third section lists sources for obtaining bee books.


1. Classifying bee books by experience level: 


    These categories are separated not by difficulty level, but by the amount of unique information within them. Most beginners books tend to resemble the other beginners books, while advanced books will hold more specialized and unique information. Not everyone will agree with my categorization, but what is important is that you recognize that there are categories. Draw the lines where they make sense to you.

I classify bee books into these loose categories: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced, and Bee-related.

a) Beginners books: Primarily Focused on equipment, terminology, and basic concepts. 


    Unfortunately, the majority of bee books published since 2007 fall into my "Beginner's" category. The CCD-era gold rush that started in 2007 lead to a proliferation of beginners books, most of which duplicate each other. I suggest reading one or two, but don't get stuck here.

Examples of Beginners books:

* Beekeeping for Dummies, by Howland Blackiston

* The Complete Idiots guide to Beekeeping, by Buzz Bissinger and Dean Stiglitz

* The Backyard Beekeeper: An Absolute Beginner's Guide to Keeping Bees, by Kim Flottum

b) Intermediate Books: These moving the focus beyond equipment and terminology, into techniques.


    These books have both breadth and depth, yet still require foundational knowledge from the reader.

Examples of Intermediate books:

* The beekeepers Handbook, by Sammataro/Avitabile

* Hive Management, by Richard Bonney

* The Practical Beekeekeeper, Vols I,II,II, by Michael Bush.

* At the hive entrance, H. Storch.

c) Advanced beekeeping books: Books from the bee masters, or dealing with specialized topics.


    These books deal with specialized topics, and require both knowledge and experience in order to derive the most benefit.

Examples of Advanced beekeeping books:

* Honey farming, by R.O.B. Manley

* 50 Years Among The bees, by Dr. C.C. Miller

* Honeybee Democracy, by T. Seeley

* The Joy of Beekeeping, Richard Taylor.

d) Bee related: Books about the culture, politics, or philosophy of beekeeping.


There's a lot of books out there that LOOK like beekeeping, but will not teach you beekeeping. Some are merely interesting, some are sensationalist, and some are magnificent. These are often mistaken for actual beekeeping books. Recognize the difference, and know that these can still be rewarding. (And you will find hidden gems of beekeeping knowledge).


As we are Calgarians, I'll limit my recommendation to one:

* Bad Beekeeping, by Ron Miksha.


2) A suggested reading roadmap:


    Don't know where to start? Here's some of my favorites, and an order to read them in. Each of these build and complement the others.

1. Beekeeping for dummies, Blackiston
2. Backyard beekeeping, Flottum
3. The beekeeper's handbook, Sammotoro.
4. At the hive entrance, Storch.
5. The practical beekeeper Volume III, Bush.
6. 50 Years among the bees, Miller.
7. The Joy of beekeeping, Taylor.


3) Where to obtain Bee books.


    Whether you are looking for a mass published book, something a little less common, or even a rare and out of print book, you'll been able to find what you need from one of the following four sources. There is overlap between these sources, but each has a unique enough catalog to warrant mention. There are many other possible sources, but I'd be surprised if they have any titles not available from one of the four below.

These are ordered from most-mainstream to most-niche.


Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com

We all know Amazon. Competitive prices and helpful reviews. A broad selection of current books, but a limited selection of older and niche beekeeping books.

Amazon also sells books by Nabu Press, who are noteworthy for scanning and reprinting out of print books that would otherwise be unavailable. It was thanks to Nabu Press that I was able to obtain a reprinted copy of the USDA's 1912 manual on comb honey production.

Search Amazon for the keywords "Nabu Beekeeping" for some very novel titles that you won't come across anywhere else.


Northern Bee Books: http://www.northernbeebooks.co.uk/

Northern bee books is the only source I know of that specializes in bee books. They also resurrect and reprint out-of-print titles. They've helpfully broken their catalog down into categories, the most helpful of which is the "Bee Masters" category. You simply can't go wrong reading any of these books. I've even ordered a few books off of their site that I'd never heard of or seen elsewhere, and been very pleased by the original material. They are like your own beekeeping-book concierge.


International Bee Research Association: http://www.ibrabee.org.uk/index.php/our-shop

The IBRA has an online shop with an incredible selection of high quality books. A lot of their catalogue is unique to them, and not available elsewhere.
Many books on tropical beekeeping, or beekeeping in deveoping countries. They also have some *AMAZING* Children's bee-books.


Ebay: http://www.ebay.ca

On the rare occasion that you're seeking a book that's out of print, and unavailable from other sources, you may be lucky enough to find it on ebay. Lots of older books are listed on Ebay, but finding a particular book at a reasonable price requires patience. After having exhausted all other sources, I was able to find a 1948 copy of E.B. Wedmore's "Manual of beekeeping". (It has since become available as a reprint, thanks to Northern Beek Books).


Google books: https://books.google.ca/


If for whatever reason, you can't find the book you want anywhere else, try Google Books. Google books has many out-of-print titles that are unavailable elsewhere, thanks to Google's efforts to scan and digitize....Everything. If you find yourself needing books from this category, it's probably time to put down the bee books and go do something else for a change.



/Created 2015, updated April 2017, Updated and published online May 2024.




Monday, 15 April 2024

Daniel’s foolproof bee package installation method.

 

Preparations: 

-       In advance, obtain pollen patties and prepare bee 1:1 feed.   You should also have ordered drawn comb.   If you don’t have drawn comb, obtain.    Hiving a package on bare, undrawn frames is a dice-roll.    Fill a spray bottle with the 1:1 feed

-       Plan to do installation as close to sundown as possible, to encourage the bees to stay-put and develop appreciation for their new home.   Do it at lunchtime, and they may take advantage of the day ahead to fly away in search of a better home.  

 

Pickup, Transport, storage:  

-       Examine package.   Dead bees on the bottom of the package is normal.  More than 100 or so may indicate a problem with the package.      If concerned, raise issue with the pickup coordinator so they can review with you. 

-       Transport in a cool place, out of direct light.    Don’t place beside a heater vent. 

-       If you can’t hive immediately, store in a cool dark place.   You don’t want to store more than a day or two.  Spray every few hours with 1:1 (thin) sugar feed.  

 

Personal Safety: 

-       Packages bees will be more disoriented than aggressive.  They want a new home.    Stings are avoidable, but possible.  I never wear a bee suit myself when hiving, but my kids do.  Let your own comfort level determine, but do tuck in your pant legs to prevent stinging stowaways.    Do not use smoke as it will give them bad vibes about their new home.   

 

Actual Installation: 

  1. Preparation:   Have an entrance reducer in place, and remove 4 frames from middle positions.  Pull out remaining frames and spray faces with feed.   Use a hive tool to remove staple fastening queen cage.  Mentally prepare by reviewing and rehearsing the next steps, so you can execute with flow, and without unnecessary delay.  
  1. Pry jar out of package, set on side of hive, feeder holes up, so stragglers can escape. 
  1. Dunk queen cage in lukewarm water to prevent her flying away.   Soak her.   Next take the queen cage, and reach hands *into* hive, and direct release her onto or under a frame, near the bottom. 

Note:    Direct queen release vs indirect:  Often folks will leave the queen cage in the hive, leaving it to the bees to release her themselves.   This is fine, but the bees already know the queen from transport.    Direct release, done right, lets her get started laying sooner.  Done wrong, and your queen will fly away. 

  1. Invert package and bang to drop bees into hive, into the opening between frames.   After the first bang, they will hold on tight.   Don’t be gentle.  You want them all out of the package.     Once 95% out, move package around 10 feet away. 
  1. Gently replace the four middle frames.   Place two pollen patties to either side of center. 
  1. Optional:   Pry the top off the feeder jar lid, and gently shake the bee/feed soup over the frames.    Ideally the rest of the bees will eat the feed and free the bees that trapped in the feed.  Otherwise, dispose with package. 
  1. Replace inner cover, and then hive top or bucket feeder over bees.  Feeders should be filled with syrop.   Replace outer cover.   

 

Disposal of package boxes:    

- The package boxes smell like home, and if left near the hives, bees may return to them.  Do everything you can to bang every last straggler out, either on top of or in front of hives.   Remove packages from the site.

 

Followup: 

-       Don’t disturb the hive for a week.  Let them get used to their new home in peace.    After a week, inspect hive to ensure it’s queenright.  If you have queen problems, there’s a limited window to replace.   If you can’t find the queen, get an experienced second set of eyes to verify before reaching out to supplier.

 

 Remember:    Plans almost never go according to plan, but it’s nonetheless important to have one.    Use a plan to start with, and adapt along the way with experience.  If you don’t yet have experience, fall back to knowledge.  Make your best guess, and things will almost always be ok.    The more experience and knowledge you have, the better you will be able to adapt.